Your New Kitten

Introduction

Your Bengal is a very special kitten and it’s wise to be prepared for their arrival. Your kitten will initially need to have a room they can call their own when they first arrive. They need to establish their safe place to hide if they feel the need. Remember to bring a suitable Bengal cat carrier with you on collection day.

Nominate the first room your kitten will be placed into. Clear it of any strings or cables they can get tangled in. Be careful to remove any poisonous plants. Place their food, water bowl/fountain, bed, litter tray(s) and toys in this room. You should now be ready to bring them home.

You need to exclude your established pets from this room, until your new kitten has found their confidence. Let them get adjusted to this room, before proceeding with any more introductions to new rooms or animals. Limit the number of visitors in the first few days, until your kitten has had a chance to bond with you.

Your Butterfly Bengals Kitten will come with:

  • Independence of Mum & litter mates from 12 weeks of age
  • 5 Generation pedigree
  • Health Card
  • Both Vaccinations
  • Neutered and Post op check
  • Registered microchip
  • Wormed
  • A full vet check before leaving for their new homes
  • 4 weeks insurance with Petplan
  • A month worth of food
  • A personalised blanket smelling of Mum & littermate to help them settle
  • Butterfly Bengals goodie bag of Bengal approved favourite toys
  • Lifetime of on going support

Kittens homed before 12 weeks (TICA) and 13 weeks (GCCF) will not have had the full experience from their mothers and litter mates and their breeders will not have followed the ethical breeder programs from their respective registry. The early days of a kitten's life have lasting effects on a cat's behaviour.

Early weaning, fighting for food, having no sense of territory are all events that can alter behaviour. It means your kitten will have had extra socialisation time with Mum and siblings, and will have had two sets of vaccinations and at least two vet checks.

Ayla at 12 weeks
Ayla at 12 weeks

Food, Water & Kitty Litter:

Please continue the diet you were provided with on collection/delivery. Make sure there is plenty of fresh water. Only change them onto new foods slowly, sudden diet changes can result in upset tummies and loose stools. You will have been given a blanket that smells of Mum that you can offer the kitten for comfort.

Make sure the litter box is a new/clean one. Unfamiliar smells will be upsetting and may put them off using the correct place. Your kitten will be litter trained, however, its not unusual for them not to “go” for the first 24-36 hours. They may not eat either, but be careful to ensure they are at least drinking water. If in doubt, measure the water into the bowl, and measure the water loss after 12 hours.

2 litter boxes would be ideal, and I highly recommend the covered types as they do like to kick the pellets miles around while digging for a spot to go potty. We use wooden litter pellets - please don’t use any clumping or clay style litters as they stick to the kittens paws & also aren’t great if they swallow them when cleaning their paws.

Feeding - Raw/Wet Food:

I feed a mix of complete chicken and beef twice a day (approx 30-50 grams per meal) always feed on demand, you can't over feed a raw fed kitten. Any raw food company is fine when it states human grade meat - no need to change over gradually in this instance.

I also offer fresh beef chunks, salmon and the odd tin of tuna or sardines as a treat.

If your kitten finishes or leaves some for 2 meals in a row then increase or decrease meal, they will slowly increase to approximately 80-100 grams of food twice a day as adults.

Raw food is delivered already frozen, each container (500g or 1kg) can be kept in the fridge for 4 days once defrosted, the 500g is the ideal size for just one kitten. We feed only a raw diet.

Kittens Eating
Rainbow Kittens Eating

Worming

I worm all our kitties every 6 months. Kittens are wormed at 2, 9 and 12 weeks of age.

I use Panacur oral paste, again this can be ordered online - super easy to do if you know the weight of your cat, if you have a kitchen scale, you can fit your cat carrier or large bowl on then that’s perfect. Dosage is measured in 1/2 kilo amounts.

If you are unsure then you can ask the vet to do it along with the nail clipping if you don’t feel confident.

Kittens at the Vet
Kittens at the Vet

Family Introduction

Introducing your new kitten onto existing animal residents is crucial, and should be approached slowly and with care. They are just the same as us, taking time to get to know new “people”. Do not be tempted to simply throw them in, even if they seem to respond well at first, doing this could certainly bring long term issues and a breakdown in the relationship.

After settling your kitten into the first room, you can slowly introduce them to other rooms, and other animals. Do this initially by taking the new kitten in their carrier into a room where the other animals have access. Allow the swapping of scents and any hissing spitting to happen, whilst protecting both from hurting each other. Do this every hour or two for a few minutes each, gradually extending the time to 20 minutes - returning the kitten to their “home” room in between, and re-assuring them with a few cuddles and kind words.

Once they have relaxed and they begin to smell like each other, you can let the kitten out of the carrier, supervised, and introduce them to the new space in the company of the other animal(s). Monitor and continue until all aggressive behaviour has ceased. They may rough play and wrestle to decide on the pecking order.

Amy & The Kittens
Amy & The Kittens

What to look for in a Breeder & a Kitten

This is by no means extensive and this list will be updated on going but these are the things I feel that are important.

Cattery:

Registered, clean and be able view/meet parents, they should be friendly and outgoing. they should be clean, bright with clear eyes and shiny coat. Some are kept outside, in purpose built buildings or in a family home. Studs are often outside due to spraying but many also house indoors.

Paperwork:

  • Cattery certificates.
  • Parents official TICA or GCCF (are the most common) paperwork, a ‘breeder’ pedigree is not proof the cat is registered or listed as being able to be bred as these are often homemade.
  • Certificates of parents health tests, these can include but not limited to:
    • PKDef - Genetic mutation causing pyruvate kinase deficiency (life threatening anaemia).
    • PRA-b - Which causes autosomal recessive blindness in Bengal Cats.
    • PKD - Progressive inherited condition which causes cysts on kidneys & ultimately kidney failure, this is a swab & scan to be complete.
  • HCM is the most commonly diagnosed cardiac disease in cats. Feline Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM) is a condition that causes the muscular walls of a cat's heart to thicken, decreasing the heart's efficiency and sometimes creating symptoms in other parts of the body. This is a scan that needs to be done annually as this is a progressive issue that is common in Bengals, a cat can be clear at 1 or 2 but can develop later in life, there is a huge variance as it can be mild and remain as is or can progress quickly.
  • There are also blood, swabs and faecal tests that some catteries also routinely do.

Kitten(s):

Personally I don’t present kittens before 4 weeks so I will advise at this point. There are always exceptions and one rule won’t fit all kittens but they are usually approximately 400g. Their eyes and ears will be open. They will be wobbly, fall over their own paws often. They may have already left their ‘nest’ to explore. They should be pretty confident at this age and not skittish or hissing. There shouldn’t be too much resistance to being handled, they might cry out to Mum when being picked up but they are often talking and if Mum isn’t worried then all is well usually, remember Bengals are quite big talkers and it starts quite young.

At this stage the kittens coat will usually be fairly clear patten wise, if a little close together but should be just before the ‘fuzzy stage’ which is roughly 5-14 weeks of age but again sometimes this can vary but ask to see pictures of the previous litter if this wasn’t a 1st mating; this will give you some idea of how their coat should end up.

Kittens MUST stay with Mum for a minimum of 12 weeks, this is from an emotional and social point of view as kittens learn a huge amount of their positive behaviours.

TICA & GCCF both run an ethical breeder program - there are no laws currently protecting cats leaving at a younger age or cats being over bred (should be absolutely no more then 2 litters a year).

Kittens must come with 1st & 2nd vaccines at approximately 9 & 12 weeks, microchipped and wormed as a minimum. They should leave being well socialised and potty trained. Already spayed/neutered or a contract to do so, official TICA/GCCF paperwork and 4 weeks of insurance too.

No runny eyes, nose, not skinny or lethargic.

Etiquette:

A good breeder will want to know just as much about you as you do of them. Please remember when enquiring that often kittens are the breeders pride & joy and a message of ‘how much is it?’ possibly won’t get the reply you are looking for. Nothing fancy but just a small amount of information goes miles. Breeders should be open and honest about answering questions, no one knows everything but they should have at least a basic knowledge of what they are doing.